Electric powered rc models have surged in popularity in recent years, and this has been particularly noticeable in radio control airplanes and helicopters.
Traditionally, surface vehicles (cars & boats etc) have been powered by electric motors without problem but aircraft have always had the serious issue of weight to deal with.
Keeping a model airplane or helicopter as light as possible is of paramount importance if good performance is to be maintained, but in the past this has proved very difficult because high-capacity, lightweight battery cells to power the motor, and lightweight micro servos and receivers were just not widely available.
But thankfully, an electronic revolution has been happening since the mid 1990s which has seen mass-produced battery packs, electric motors, servos and receivers become smaller, lighter and more powerful - all adding up to electric rc models improving greatly in performance, becoming cheaper to buy and very widely available.
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The word battery is often used to describe what in fact is a single cell. For example, if your rc transmitter requires 8 AA batteries, it in fact requires 8 AA cells.
Technically a battery is a collection of two or more cells, but the battery/cell misunderstanding has become widely accepted and it's perfectly normal to say "8 AA batteries" instead of "8 AA cells".
Two types of cell can be used for electric rc - wet and dry. Dry cells are non-rechargeable and must be disposed of once their energy has been used. Wet cells can be recharged over and over again.
Using dry cells in a radio control model and transmitter is not uncommon, especially in cheaper models and rc toys, but rechargeable cells are a much more sensible option - and will cost you less in the long term.
The original rechargeable cells are Nickel Cadmium ones, abbreviated to NiCd. These are rarely used nowadays and have been succeeded by Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) and Lithium ion Polymer (LiPo) cells.
NiCds are the least powerful of the three and cadmium, a type of metal used inside the cell, is extremely toxic - these two reasons alone are enough not to use NiCd cells!
Nickel Metal Hydride cells (NiMH) have 3 or 4 times the power capacity than an equivalent-sized NiCd and are presently the most common ones found in electric rc models, both in the model itself and the transmitter.
NiMH cells don't suffer from the so-called memory effect and so can be charged regardless of their present charge level - NiCds always had to be fully discharged before being recharged.
The disadvantage with NiMH cells is that they do have a relatively high self-discharge rate, even when they're not being used. For this reason, it's always a good idea to charge them before heading out to the field, as they will more than likely need 'topping up' - [more on charging further down the page].
Lithium ion polymer battery packs (LiPo) are the most recent major development in wet cell technology and these alone have transformed the face of electric rc flight.
They have a very high capacity relative to their size and weight, and deliver much longer run times and higher power because of this.
Disadvantages of LiPo battery packs are that they are a potential fire hazard if charged incorrectly, and the cost is considerably more than their NiMH cousin.
Having said that, the advantages in performance of using a LiPo battery pack in a rc model far outweigh this cost, which incidentally is bound to fall as the technology develops further.
Top-end LiPo powered electric rc aircraft are now beginning to match the abilities of nitro powered aircraft in terms of speed and run-time. That was an impossible idea just a few years ago!
It's important to pay close attention to the charging requirements of your wet cells.
If you've purchased an RTF rc model, then the chances are that an appropriate charger is included in the box. If not, then invest in a good quality peak detection charger if you use NiMH cells in your model. PD chargers prevent over-charging, and the associated damage to the cells.
If in doubt, speak with the person you are buying from and tell him/her exactly which capacity cells you have and which connectors are used on the battery pack.

Above, on the outside there isn't much to differentiate between NiMH (left) and LiPo (right) chargers, but using the correct one is so important
Charging NiMH cells is a straightforward process, so long as you take the time to calculate the optimum charging time given the capacity of your cells and the charger output.
Charging information may also be displayed on the cells themselves - for example, "7h-110mA" tells you that the cell must be charged for 7 hours at an output of 110mA.
However, charging LiPo cells is a different story and it's imperative that you charge them with a charger meant for LiPo cells.
The whole charging process is different for lithium polymer battery packs, and packs can explode when over-charged, creating a fireball - you do not want this happening in your hobby room while you are out in the back yard!
(Do a search for "LiPo battery" on YouTube to see what can happen).
Never use a charger that is meant for NiMH cells on a LiPo battery pack, the result can be devastating.
If in doubt ask the seller and be 100% sure about what you are buying.
Trickle charging is a term used to describe a method of very low-current continuous charging to compensate the cell's natural discharge rate, thus keeping the cell topped up so long as it is connected to the charger.
Many fast battery chargers automatically switch over to trickle charging once the main fast-charge has completed.
All cells have a capacity and the value is expressed in mAh, or milliampere-hour (also often seen as milliamp hour).
The higher the capacity, the more work it can do and the mAh value represents how much current will flow from the cell over a given amount of time eg a 600mAh cell will give 600 milliamps over one hour, or 1200 milliamps over half an hour etc.
Typically, a single AA size NiMH cell used in a rc transmitter will be around the 600mAh mark, whereas a large battery pack used to power a rc car motor may be 1200mAh or more.
Logically, the bigger the task the pack has to do, the higher the capacity it needs to be.
When individual cells are connected together, there are two methods of connection - in parallel and in series.
By wiring cells together in parallel, the positive terminals connect to positive terminals and negative to negative. The end result is an increase in total capacity but the voltage remains at the level of just one of the cells.
By wiring cells together in series, the positive terminal is connected to its neighboring negative terminal. This results in the total capacity staying at the level of each individual cell, but the overall voltage is increased to the value of all cells added together.
For example, 7 x 600mAh AAA cells wired in series to make up a battery flight pack do not create 4,200mAh flight pack - the pack's capacity stays at 600mAh, but the voltage becomes 7 x 1.2V = 8.4V.
Conversely, 7 x 600mAh AAA cells wired in parallel will result in a 4.2A 1.2V pack.

Above left, series wiring of cells compared to parallel wiring, right
Battery packs for rc models have their cells connected in series, with the exception of larger LiPo packs....
LiPo battery packs have a different rating system and can have cells wired in series, then wired in parallel to an identical set of cells.
This gives the best of both worlds - the higher voltage from the cells wired in series, plus the higher capacity from the two sets of cells being wired together in parallel.
A single LiPo cell is 3.7V, compared to the 1.2V of a NiMH cell, so LiPo battery packs can be bought in increments of 3.7. For example, 3 cells connected in series will give a 11.1V pack, 4 cells a 14.8V pack and so on.
LiPo battery packs are rated with S, P and C values - for example, a '3S' pack will have 3 cells wired in series and a '3S2P' pack will have two lots of 3 serially-wired cells connected together in parallel.
The 'C' value is given to a LiPo cell to help determine the cell's maximum discharge rate. In other words, the C rating helps determine whether or not a particular battery pack is compatible with a particular motor.
It's a simple calculation to make, you multiply the cell's C value by its capacity - a 2100mAh 10C rated battery has a recommended maximum discharge rate of 10 x 2100 = 21,000mA, or 21 Amps.
Incidentally, battery charger rates and battery pack discharge rates are always given in milliamperes, or mA.
Helping the advance of electric rc is the brushless motor.
Traditionally, electric powered models have used standard DC 'brushed' motors. In these, carbon brushes press against the commutator as part of the motor's operation, and this causes friction to the spinning commutator and hence the main spindle on which it is attached. This unwanted, but inevitable, friction puts extra strain on the motor and also the brushes wear down with use, needing periodical replacement.
While this method does work well, a brushless motor uses electronic circuitry and powerful magnets to do the job of the brushes/commutator system.
The end result is no friction and therefore much greater efficiency meaning a huge increase in power - brushless motors can be up to 300% more powerful than their brushed counterpart, and they also do away with the issue of brush replacement.
There are two types of brushless motor used in radio control modeling; the inrunner motor and outrunner motor. The inrunner motor is closer to a brushed motor in that the body remains stationary and only the spindle rotates. Brushed motors used in larger models will often need a separate gearbox to boost the torque if spinning a larger prop.
Outrunner brushless motors are different because they feature a rotating 'can', or outer shell, to which the spindle is connected. The magnets inside are also fixed to the can and so the whole assembly rotates as the motor operates. Because of this extra spinning mass, more inertia and therefore greater torque is generated. Outrunner brushless motors are very suitable for larger models, and a gearbox is often not necessary as the torque from the motor alone is sufficient.

Above, the difference in appearance between an inrunner (left) and outrunner (right) brushless motor
The speed of electric motors is controlled by speed controllers.
Like the motors, mechanically operated controllers have been replaced with much more effective electronic speed controllers, or ESCs, which plug directly into the model's receiver instead of being linked to a servo, as a mechanical one needs to be.

Above left, an outdated mechanical SC compared to a modern ESC, right
Speed controllers, whether mechanical or electronic, work by varying the power entering the motor from the battery pack, in accordance with the movement of the throttle transmitter stick.
Brushless electric motors combined with LiPo battery packs and ESCs are the ultimate combination for power when it comes to electric rc.
Equally important as lightweight and powerful battery packs and motors, micro servos and receivers have also contributed to the advance of electric rc, in a micro-sized big way!
Such components weigh only a few grams, yet are as powerful and efficient as their larger, standard-size cousins.
Micro servos and receivers are widely used in the smaller electric airplanes and helicopters, and in helicopters the receiver is usually combined with the ESC and gyro, making it a '3 in 1' electronic component.
As this great electronic revolution continues, it really is a question of "How small can we go?..."!